Because she has one, and it's sort of unisex. Dubbed Title A, Deyn told The Cut that the line is inspired by, "Katharine Hepburn and Patti Smith [ed. note: you can see this one in the AW14 campaign images, above] and how guys used to dress in the '90s; the list is endless. Annie Hall. Even in the 1900s, how women used to wear big overcoats over their dresses and things. It kind of comes from everywhere, really." It's not a bad list, and I'd be lying if I said Annie Hall hasn't been a style touchstone for me many a morning. Deyn also references Dries Van Noten in her interview, and his influence is obviously felt in outfits such as the one below—a standout Chesterfield wool coat ($450) layered over a smoking jacket ($375) and slouchy tee ($79).
The suiting elements in the collection definitely smack of Margaret Howell, which is never a bad thing.
But I wonder if Deyn could've pushed her conceit a bit more? It feels a little too of the moment, and lacks a certain je nais se quoi. "I’ve always worn boys' clothes growing up and menswear all the time, but I feel like this is slightly different," she told The Cut. "It has sexy dressing...it’s kind of that cross between how Mick Jagger and Kurt Cobain wore women’s clothes that kind of fit. At the moment, there’s kind of a non-gender. Some guys actually dress more feminine than women in their tight jeans and T-shirts and things like that...so, I feel like it’s not just like, 'Oh, we’re making a menswear collection in the burn-your-bra-feminism way'. It’s more of embracing femininity with whatever you wear, like the silk dresses."
It still reads a bit like a COS/Zara mash-up on screen, but maybe once I got my hands on a few pieces I'd be a convert. But shout out to the 'non-gendered' karma!
Campaign photography via Title A; lookbook photography (below) © Dana Boulos.
I didn't realize, but she sold it a few years ago for $2.5 million. It was designed by Ricky Clifton, whose work is divisively good (the photo above is from the listing, not the magazine). You can read up on the apartment and Clifton here.