STUDIO VISIT WITH GILES & BROTHER

5.29.2013

Yesterday I had the pleasure of stopping by Philip Crangi’s atelier-cum-office to view the Giles & Brother S/S13 men’s and women’s collections. Crangi and his team moved into the space three years ago and in that short time they’ve managed to craft a beautifully articulated little Crangi-verse that speaks directly to the layered aesthetic of the brand. Every surface has a patina; plants and stacks of books and magazines sit atop tables and shelves; the furniture is a mishmash of eras and nationalities. There’s something of old New York in the building, and I don't mean just the hand-hammered tin ceiling and uneven floors; it’s as handsomely weathered and winsome as the burly, bearded Crangi himself.

A somewhat newly minted style icon in the world of #menswear, Crangi has been on his grind, so to speak, along with his sister and business partner, Courtney Crangi Giles, for over a decade. In 2008 they won the CFDA Swarovski Award for Accessory Design. To make a long story short, these two are pretty well killing it.


This spring saw Crangi melding the seemingly disparate worlds of 18th century court costume with Stevie Nicks for his women's collection. “So like if Fabergé was going to be designing the costumes for a Fleetwood Mac tour,” he laughs.

The pieces have a definite Southwest flavor that smacks of the early 70’s, gypset decadence and free love. “I have a lot of nostalgia for that moment,” says Crangi. “My parents were hippies…we used to spend a lot of time driving around the Southwest from one campground to the next. We had a VW van that was orange, of course, and friends who had a green one and they had a silversmithing thing in the back and they would go places and set up.

“I love that that’s so inherently American…like it really could happen nowhere else. Giles to me is about a kind of American vernacular and mixing that with these ideas of a more high-end European grandeur, and what happens when those two things come together.”


Crangi cites Mexican screen diva María Félix as a constant inspiration. “She, to me, is decidedly new world, but really glamorous at the same time. I like those kind of eccentric, jewelry-obsessed women.”


The men’s line is a bit more understated, as expected, and Crangi tells me he is preparing to launch another facet of this collection that’s very personal and very wearable. “Right now we’re in the middle of evolving these new pieces. I think it’s getting a little bit more elevated in the materials; we’re going back to some more classic shapes like ID bracelets and chains. One of the challenges to doing such a huge seasonal collection, though sometimes it’s really rewarding, is creating all of these levels and textures organically—except it happens all at once. It’s a challenge, but it’s fun.”

While the individual pieces are decidedly less bold than their female counterparts, that doesn’t mean they’re any less unique. Case in point: one of my favorite pieces in the collection, a necklace of antique African beads mixed with nuts and bolts.


A huge thank you to Philip and Courtney for having me in the studio! And particularly to Philip for sharing his story with me - so interesting, no? Be sure to follow Giles & Brother on Facebook and Twitter and stop by their online shop while you're at it. Like this post? Check out my studio tour with Andy Lifschutz!

P.S. Yo, this dude's arms is crazy. They’re so big I could date one and that guy from Glee could date the other and I would have no idea. Unff.

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HOW TO WEAR A CROP TOP #IRL

5.28.2013


Layered over a dress shirt. So easy you'll have to make some really weird faces just to keep things interesting.

This particular mesh jersey crop top was boughten at 10 ft. Single. I'd had my eye on it for summer for some months and finally took the plunge. It's kind of ridiculous on its own, but there's nothing wrong with a little ridiculous. Or a lot of ridiculous. Expect to see more where this came from. Photos Pete Oliviëra.

THE SHORTS SUIT

5.27.2013


Knee high socks, longer(ish) shorts, and sexy sneaks. And ya done! Shorts Assembly New York (seen here), sneakers Y-3 from Tokio 7 (seen here). See more alterna-suiting options here and here.

DEAR INTERNET No. 32

5.26.2013

The last Dear Internet was–gasp–in January! And my last Fotobomb was some months before that. Needless to say, I've got a bit of a backlog of things I'm loving and feel like sharing. Compiling this was a good reminder of how many photographers I've come across recently whose work I should really share...especially since I'm not able to shoot so much as I'd like to right now. Should I get another Fotobomb ready?

Speaking of great photography, I'm totally in love with Adrianna Glaviano's fashion work:


Dab opened an online shop and these are some of the cute things in it:


This Japanese street photography has me dreaming of an East Asian summer tour, bouncing between Tokyo, Hong Kong and Taipei:


Stylist and photographer (he's like me!) Samuel Gallagher's work is quite nice:


Blogger Room Boy Pony is a current inspiration:


Cute dotted things at Hickoree's:


I saw these Dieppa Restrepo beauties in Pas De Deux (such a sweet lil' [technically women's] shop in the EV, check it out) in black and I looove them. They remind me of the shoes for Satu Maaranen's Hyères collection:


Maison Kitsuné opened in Tokyo earlier this year and there has a café; it is cute and the branding is to die for (hope the coffee's not shite):


Some spring outfit inspirations via The Sart and L21ème...


The delicious bedroom of Sydney's Cassandra Karinsky:


It's getting warmer and that means I switch my brekkie from oatmeal to yogurt + granola + berries. Chantelle Grady has a sumptuous muesli how-to on her site:


Follow me on Pinterest and Tumblr to catch all of my favorite finds!

CAT'S OUTTA THE BAG

5.24.2013



Or maybe the bear's outta the cage? Oof, bad puns aside...

As the post title indicates, I'm ready to spill my #PBN. A friend messaged me on Facebook when she saw my mug pop up in her newsfeed in a work-related post, so I figure there's no better time than the present - I'm the new web + social guy for Lonny magazine! It's a really good fit for me as I get to go around being a fool-ass in all new settings, such as the International Contemporary Furniture Fair (pictured, above.)

But for seriousness, I'm really excited and happy. I work with great people on a great product and I get to be passionate about what I do. Our office is in a great spot, so I'm looking forward to many an alfresco lunch in Washington Square Park, or at least an afternoon iced coffee run into new favorite Oren's. Of course, this does mean, as you've seen, that my schedule right now is kinda-sorta too intense for xxcore bloggage. As I said last week, it's about finding a new rhythm...so once I get things sorted out, posting will pick back up here!


And speaking of ICFF, here are a few snapshots from my personal favorite booth, Apparatus Studio. The line is focused on lighting, but their whole setup was just so...dare I say it? Chic. (You can read my feature on these guys over at Lonny.) Oh, and then there's just this one extra photo I tossed in from the Fab booth, myself and Angelica iced out in that designer #swag.

Anyway - thanks for bearing with me, dear readers, and...cheers!

[STREET STYLE] OFF BROADWAY

5.23.2013


Love this simple look - black is so smart for summer!

THE DEVIL & HEDI SLIMANE

5.20.2013



There's an image in June's Vogue of Edie Campbell wearing a floor-length suede shirtdress by Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent. She's in Morocco (always Morocco), standing next to a motorcycle that was probably sourced from the prop department that is George Lucas's garage. The dress is too long and bunches elegantly at Campbell's feet. I saw this and I thought to myself...I relent!

SLP is what it is. Slimane's brand and the pointed, some might venture to say narrow artistic vision behind it may not be avant-garde, but it's certainly got an attitude - a certain disregard for propriety, if you will - that seems to have captured a lot of imaginations. And, well - I want a wide-brimmed hat, too! (Borrowed this one from McArthur so I'm still lacking.)

Click through to continue reading!

FRUIT FANCIES No. 6

5.17.2013

This is pretty much exactly how I would wear this. Take these relatively loud and totally gorgeous pyjama pants and dress 'em down with a heather gray tee. Top it off with a 12-f*cking-hundred dollar murse (but hot damn if it ain't a beauty) and some #JesusSandals and you'll be day drinking with Mary-Kate Olsen in no time!



pants Damir Doma at Luisa Via Roma // t-shirt Orlebar Brown at Mr. Porter // bag Saint Laurent at Barneys // sandals Dimissianos & Miller at Luisa Via Roma // sunnies Cutler & Gross at Mr. Porter

CRAIGSLIST VS. SWEDEN

5.16.2013


I hate having to do this, but: sooorrrryyy the blog has been so quiet this week! I have some PBN (pretty big news) to announce - but not yet. Needless to say, I have less time on my hands, even for planning out posts and scheduling them. My rhythm is off, and I'm hoping to get back into the swing of things soon - bear with me!

Speaking of rhythms, I'm apartment hunting again - a July 1 move is imminent (well, imminent enough). I have so far divided my time between Craigslist (and weeping) and poring over Swedish real estate (and drooling). Cross your fingers for me and feel free to send any leads my way!


Images via Fantastic Frank and Bolaget. Like this post? Find more in the Decor + Living tab!

In God We Trust

5.13.2013


Shana Tabor is owner and founder of Brooklyn-based label In God We Trust. She's funny, down-to-earth and talented - and maybe the first person I've ever wanted to legitimately describe as "rad."

After buying one of the brand's shirts (seen here in last week's outfit post) and talking a little bit to the sales staff about its 'Made in the USA' tag, I decided to set up a tour of the IGWT studio. Because if this blog is about anything, aside from pushing my gaymo agenda, it's about pushing my liberal hipster agenda where I shop locally and try to convince you to do the same or else all the whales will die. Shana was obliging enough to let me stop by her label's Greenpoint, Brooklyn storefront-cum-studio to find out how it all gets done, who's behind it and what's in a name.


Shana went to school for jewelry design and used to work as a wholesaler. In a sort of "reverse-scaling" move, she started In God We Trust small - really small. “I’d make like, three of one dress and when we sold one I’d replace it.” That's changed now, but the company still produces on a tiny scale relative to the production standards most of us are used to.

"In the garment district, in New York anyways, it's still kinda hard to find people that will work with small runs," says Shana. "To go overseas to do production you need huge quantities...so I knew that wasn't even a possibility." All of IGWT's materials are sourced in the city, and all of the metals used for castings are recycled. They work with different sources in New York to find textiles and have everything that's not produced in Greenpoint produced in the garment district.

Click through to continue reading PLUS there's a video!

SASKIA DE BRAUW

5.10.2013


By Alasdair McLellan for The Gentlewoman, via. Just a little Friday morning inspiration...for wearing all black + Margiela on the beach. I'm headed to Philly (for the first time ever!) for my cousin's wedding, so be sure you're following me on the 'Gram to catch whatever inappropriate crack joke I crack (say crack one more time!) at the Liberty Bell: @thisfruitsnaps.

[TRENDSPOTTING] MODERN LACE

5.09.2013


File under: coulda woulda shoulda. This extra-long Astrid Andersen basketball tank would've been great for the Met Gala, with just some silky black trunks (preferably cut from a diaper pattern) underneath and an OTK (that's over-the-knee, nubes) Rick Owens meel. Amiright? Me and Chloë Sevigny would've shut it down like only ex-sisterwives know how and then obviously we'd have had lots of cool the sex with not blind male models!

[EATING] 3 SUMMER SALADS

5.08.2013

If soup is my winter staple, salads are my favorite foodie thing about summer. I feel too guilty indulging in strawberries in the middle of January (he says on the internet) and can't stand so-called "winter salads" of like, beet root and artichoke stump or whatever, so the seasonal dietary change is always welcomed with open arms. Here are three of the most perfectest salad combos for summer (counter-clockwise from top): strawberries + spinach, chickpeas + parsley, and avocado + tomato.

Put your personal spin on these recipes with a twist and a tweak - some nuts, more cheese - or add homosexualist flair by serving them with a "tossed salad" joke! (Don't ask, Mom.) (Wait - don't Google it, either!)


{Images + recipes via: A Daily SomethingSimply Delicious and Simple Provisions. Like this post? Check out this recipe for quinoa bibimbap!}

OHK + LEAF BOWTIE GIVEAWAY!

5.06.2013


This week I've teamed up with McArthur of Daily Mister to show two different ways to put a personal spin on spring neckwear from Ohk + Leaf. Based in Atlanta, Georgia, Ohk + Leaf was founded by brothers Caleb and Ethan with the help of their mother, a fourth-generation seamstress. Caleb cites Nick Wooster and Michael Bastian as inspirations, as well as Gene Kelly and Julie Andrews in Victor Victoria. "My moodboard is a mix of pure Americana and genre-bending, gender-defying individuals wearing classically powerful clothing," Caleb told me.

I paired my bright orange bow with a shirt from In God We Trust, a thrifted windbreaker and my Cheap Monday skinnies. The #supercute shoes are c/o Florsheim by Duckie Brown (You may remember I  'grammed their spring offerings here and here.)


While I embraced pops of color, McArthur took his bow in a more butch direction. He wears a vintage hat from the Manhattan Vintage Clothing Show, pants from Gap, a denim jacket from American Eagle Outfitters and boots by Dr. Scholls. To enter our giveaway, simply drop by the *fruitpunch Facebook page and 'like' the post pinned to the top (It says "Giveaway!" You can't miss it.) Two winners will be chosen at random and sent an Ohk + Leaf bowtie! Get social with Ohk + Leaf on Facebook and Twitter.

DRESSING TO FEEL BETTER

5.05.2013



"You need to learn to say no to senseless rhythms and schizophrenia. Something fast, something that is supposed to change your personality, your tastes...you have to learn to refuse this mechanism..." - designer Christophe Lemaire talks to Apartamento magazine.

[NOW PLAYING] DAUGHTER

5.02.2013



Daughter is one of those bands I feel like someone told me about a year or two ago, but I never got around to checking them out for one reason or another. It's that kind of band name where you're like, "Oh, yeah, Daughter - I think I've heard of them. So amaze. But do you know Clipboard? Beyond amaze." (This skit comes to mind.) This song is the definition of "hauntingly beautiful"; I'm also loving Landfill and Smother. The group's debut album was released in the States this week, you can get it herePhoto Mariana Pacho López.

Like this post? Check out Laura Marling. You can find all of my music picks here.

HYÈRES 2013: CROWNING GLORY

5.01.2013


Hyères 2013 is officially over (the competition ran from April 26-29 - blink and ya missed it!) and 29-year-old Finnish designer Satu Maaranen is the grand prize winner. Menswear designer Camille Kunz took home a special prize awarded by the label Chloé and Shanshan Ruan took home the "prix du public de la ville d'Hyères" (public prize of the city of Hyères.) You can see some details from Maaranen's collection, "Garment in Landscape," below:


I really love Maaranen's collection. I get hints of Viktor & Rolf (am I allowed to say that?) but a bit more artful; note how the design is actually an oversized shirt worn with arm tubes (uh, technical term?) that meet the shirt sleeve. And that bow! Talk about bringing a "pop of color" to your face. Oh, and one more outburst - those shoes! I'm dying. I want them now. Oh, shit, one more (more) outburst - those hats! So #fashion. Read more about Maaranen here and here.

 

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